Booking Your Trips
Architectural guidebooks add joy to the journey.
BY DWIGHT YOUNG
Here's an interesting bit of news about Omaha: It
has more historic buildings today than it did 30 years
ago. That's the conclusion I reached after comparing
Building for the Ages: Omaha's Architectural Landmarks,
a guidebook published in 2003, with Omaha City
Architecture, which appeared in 1977.
Good job, Omaha! If you can sustain this growth spurt
in landmarks, you'll soon have more old buildings
than new, and the books will just keep getting thicker.
That's fine with me, because if there's
one thing I love, it's an architectural guidebook—especially
when accompanied by a comfy chair, a good reading
light, and snacks within easy reach.
Comparing examples from different periods, as I did
with the two from Omaha, can be interesting in itself,
but the basic purpose of these Baedekers is to get
you out of your chair and into the street. That means
(this is particularly worth noting now that vacation
season is upon us) that a good guide can provide the
spark for a memorable—even startling—travel
experience.
It was such a volume that turned me on to the fact
that Buffalo, of all places, is a knock-your-socks-off
paradise for architecture buffs. And if not for various
other manuals I've pored over, I might never
have laid eyes on a turn-of-the-century Vedanta temple
that mixes Edwardian bay windows with a crenellated
corner tower and an eye-popping array of exotic domes
(it's on Webster Street in San Francisco); or
a 1920s apartment building tricked out in nautical
motifs—porthole windows, bollards, and a lighthouse
on the roof—because its owner loved the sea,
even though she was an Army wife (it's here in
Washington, a few blocks from my office—who knew?);
or a community where tropical vegetation provides
a lush backdrop for clusters of houses designed to
look as if they were transported from Normandy, China,
and various other faraway places (that's Coral
Gables, Fla.).
Most of my volumes have yellow Post-It notes sticking
out of them, each one representing a stop on the Ultimate
Amazing Building-Watching Tour I hope to begin someday.
(I figure it'll take about five years, plus untold
numbers of vitamins.) When I find myself in St. Louis,
for example, I'll know exactly where to go: At
the intersection of Grand Boulevard and 20th Street,
there's a 19th-century water tower in the form
of a 154-foot-tall Corinthian column. If the real
thing is as impressive as my guidebook leads me to
believe, it's worth a special trip—and the
guidebook is worth every penny I paid for it.
Even one that doesn't send you rushing for your
suitcase can be just as valuable. One of my favorites
is a modest volume called Canton: The Architecture
of Our Home Town. I have two reasons for being
fond of it. First, it was written by a good friend
from grad school days. And second, it does a really
nice job of illuminating—even celebrating—the human-scale
history embodied in the buildings of an "ordinary"
town in western North Carolina.
Photos show the houses, churches, schools, and stores
that line Canton's streets—simple buildings,
sturdy and unpretentious examples of what usually
gets described (if anybody takes the trouble to describe
it) as "vernacular architecture." But it
has significance, as the epilogue points out: "By
finding the meaning in each structure
we begin
to comprehend the needs, values, and choices that
shape the town where we live." In fact, Canton
looks a lot like many other towns. This little book
simply lays it out on the page, letting us see it
for what it is: a place where people built a legacy
in which their long-ago lives are embodied, a legacy
of brick and wood and stone that can inform and anchor
us if we let it.
If you ask me, that's the best thing any guidebook—whether
it deals with Chicago or Copenhagen or Canton, N.C.—can
hope to do: encourage us to see and cherish things
we might never have noticed otherwise.
Read more from our current
issue online, look for Preservation on
newsstands, e-mail
us to purchase a copy, or subscribe
to the magazine.
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