A Marvelous Harvest
Book by book, the Buildings of the United States series is
painting the nation?s architectural portrait.
BY ARNOLD BERKE
Point Hope, in far northwestern Alaska,
pushes into the Chukchi Sea some 60 miles east of
where today meets tomorrow at the International Date
Line. But yesterday is of primary interest here, for
this treeless, seemingly inhospitable spit of land
claims to be the oldest continuously peopled place
in North America. One of its vanished settlements,
Ipiutak, was settled more than 2,000 years ago by
ancestors of today's northern Alaska Eskimos.
Another village, Tigara, has survived by twice moving
away from the advancing sea. In its second location,
abandoned in 1976, stands a century-old dwelling that
architectural historian Alison K. Hoagland calls "one
of the most extraordinary vernacular structures in
America."
The Nanny Ooyahtona House, named for its last inhabitant,
is a rare surviving example of the traditional sod-covered
habitations once common on this distant peninsula,
where caribou, bear, whales, and walruses gave sustenance.
In the summer of 1990, Hoagland went searching for
the house amid a cluster of remnant dwellings?"basically
furry mounds," as she calls them. "No one was around.
Finally I found it, went inside with a lot of trepidation,
then discovered that the whole place was lined with
whale bones. So amazing! I'd never seen anything like
it."
In a land where wood is scarce, sturdy bones from
the marine mammals were for centuries used to frame
and infill the walls and ceilings of houses. The bones,
long and gracefully curved, also fenced in nearby
Point Hope Cemetery, the tallest pair touching at
the top to form an entry arch, bleached and raw but
confidently Gothic.
For more of this story, subscribe
to the magazine, look for the January/February
2005 issue on newsstands, or e-mail
us to purchase a copy.
Read more excerpts from our current
issue.
|