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Archives: November/December 2007

The Rake's Progress

An expat American writer, his sprawling Irish estate, and the cult classic that made him famous

BY JAMES CONAWAY

Slideshow: Inside Donleavy's Irish estate
Fifty years ago, a new novel set in Dublin but written by an American caused an international sensation. J.P. Donleavy's The Ginger Man, a controversial work temporarily banned in his native country, would eventually sell many copies worldwide and make the author rich. Donleavy, figuring he had no future as a writer in the States, settled permanently in Ireland and used some of the money he made from The Ginger Man to buy a country estate in the lovely, rolling countryside of County Westmeath, where he set himself up as a kind of latter-day Anglo-Irish lord. In an 18th-century manor house on 100-plus acres, he wrote more books and plays, painted, and contributed in one way or another to a legend that grew even as his literary star descended.

Sebastian Dangerfield, the hero of J.P. Donleavy's novel The Ginger Man, may be one of the most colorful wastrels in fiction. He's a boozer, a womanizer, and a swindler trying to get by at Dublin’s Trinity College--and slink through life by any means necessary. Donleavy began the book while he, himself, was a student at Trinity, and it was first published in Paris in 1955. The journey toward publication, however, was difficult and the outcry afterward loud. Scribner’s, Random House, and Little, Brown had all turned the book down because of pages upon pages of scatology (there's a famous scene involving a toilet crashing into a kitchen, but we won't ruin it for you), and an editor at Little, Brown had deemed several passages "obscene libel." After it finally appeared, the novel was banned in the United States. Only later was an unexpur-gated edition released. It grew slowly into a cult classic. Donleavy lives at Levington Park, an 18th-century manor house in Ireland's County Westmeath. A tour of the house reveals colorful interiors, and just beyond the grounds lie lush, green countryside and the lake known as Lough Owel.
The Ginger Man is about an American choosing the life of an expat for the irreverent freedom it provides from the conventions of American life. I read the novel in high school and thought it, if suggestive of James Joyce, wildly entertaining-proof that a world existed beyond the uptight America of the late 1950s. I read some of Donleavy's subsequent, less adventuresome novels and then more or less forgot about him. Only recently, when planning a long-overdue trip to Ireland, did I think of his house, called Levington Park, and decide to ask for an invitation. I wanted to see how it and this native of Brooklyn, now 81, had fared in the Anglo-Irish world of foxhounds and wellies, in a famous house with eight bathrooms, an indoor swimming pool, and a colorful first owner.

"Mr. Donleavy would be happy to receive you here to see Levington Park, which does have some architectural and historical interest."

The note, written by his secretary, contains directions from the outskirts of the central Irish city of Mullingar to a dirt road and a big, rusty, anonymous gate that requires strength and determination to open. On the far side, amid unmown grass, are beech and chestnut trees and a curving driveway leading to "an old discolored house," in the words of James Joyce, who visited here in 1900. Joyce was a teenager at the time, traveling with his father, a minor public official dealing with a local problem. Joyce later wrote about the house in Stephen Hero, a precursor to A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. Joyce's description still applies, with the additions of an ancient Toyota, hairy with green mold, abandoned next to a functional Subaru Outback with gloves and a walking stick on the back seat.

For more of this article, look for the November/December 2007 issue on newsstands or e-mail us to purchase a copy. Subscribe to the magazine. More from our current issue >>

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