| Suburban Harvest
Only a few miles from Washington, D.C., fast-growing and
populous Montgomery County, Md., leads the nation in saving
farmland from development.

Story by Arnold Berke / Feb.
1, 2002

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| Maryland farmland (Maryland-National Capital
Park and Planning Commission) |
"Can you point me to the tomatoes again? Im
lost," a woman pleads to the clerk at an outdoor farm stand
not far from Poolesville, Md. "If you go past the pumpkins,"
comes the reply, "youve gone too far. Just go straight."
All around her, parents with small children, school groups, and
dozens of other daytrippers break the rural repose with their
chatter and scurry. This is Homestead Farm, run for years by the
Allnutt family as a pick-your-own business where urban folk come
out to harvest fruits, vegetables, and flowersand reap other
day-in-the-country values in the bargain, like open space and
fresh air. From late May, when the strawberries ripen, through
the end of October, when the pumpkin patch has been picked clean,
Homestead is a sea of people and produce.
Ben Allnutt runs the 350-acre Homestead spread
with his wife, Maureen. One of the oldest families in Montgomery
County, the Allnutts have been farming here since 1763, when James
Allnutt moved from Calvert County after buying Thomas Discovery,
a 746-acre spread along Seneca Creek. Bens father, Benoni,
was born in the big white turn-of-the-century house next to the
market stand.
Ben greets a group of women and kids on a church-group
outing: "We just saw your mom a half-hour ago, and she said
to go see the goats." A ruddy man in his late forties, Allnutt
is an impresario in his element, entertaining a public that never
seems to stop coming. Soon he is advising a swarm of schoolboys
on how to pick apples. "You guys can chew on apples till
the cows come home," he says, "and in your place thats
probably never. What we also want to do is keep from knocking
the apples off the trees. And that means you cant climb
them."
This cheery show is taking place not in the folds
of faraway mountain country but a paltry 15 miles from the Capital
Beltway, the fearsome traffic girdle around Washington, D.C. The
trip out to Homestead traverses a clot of suburbs, ending in Potomac,
a once thinly settled sector of horsy swagger now densified with
bulbous mansions on streets with names like Tack House Court.
Just beyond, ersatz rural gives way to the real thing, a domain
of farms, woods, and occasional houses. Narrow roads with bushy
verges squiggle through fields of soybeans and corn that melt
into distant uplands. The entrance to Homestead is on a single-lane
concrete way called Sugarland Roadone of the countys
few surviving early-20th-century "politician" roads,
so-called because they were built past the farms of prominent
voters.
Ordinarily such an Arcadia, so near the big city
with its rarely denied appetite for expansion, would seem disquietingly
transitory. Beautiful, historic, and serene but, alas, not destined
to stay so. Why should it? No such American countryside, it seems,
ever does. Here in upper Montgomery County, however, what you
see now may well be what you see in 10, 20, or even 50 years.
Alone among the jurisdictions surrounding Washington, and rare
nationally, the county is preserving its remaining farmland from
developmentand in sufficient aggregation to both sustain
agriculture and contain sprawl. For more than two decades, in
fact, Montgomery has been implementing bold preservation strategies
that, while they dont please everybody, have gained remarkable
support and success. "This is the single most successful
program in the nation," says Dan Marriott, director of the
National Trusts rural-heritage program and a Montgomery
native.
How it came to be is a story of visionary planning,
pragmatic reading of both rural and urban growth, and solid political
backing. Described simply, Montgomery County has been skimming
off the ability to develop land in its 139-square-mile upper portion
and, in one way or another, compensating property owners for the
right to do so. Much of that energy to develop has been sent down-county
to reinforce urbanization there. At the same time, the county
has helped ensure that the protected farmland continues to be
used for farmingeven as that pursuit undergoes considerable
change.
Save Haven
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Izzak Walton League Farm
(John P. Zawitoski)
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Montgomery County rises north and west of Washington
into the Piedmont along the Potomac River. Its agriculture stretches
back to colonial times, when subsistence farming, then tobacco,
ruled; wheat, other grains, livestock, and orchards took over
in the 19th century. Completion of a Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
line in 1873 gave ready access to booming postwar Washington,
enriching farms and dairies that in turn nourished hamlets like
Poolesville, Barnesville, and Damascus. At the height of their
productivity in the early 20th century, the farms were generating
corn, wheat, and dairy products; after World War II came soybeans.
Farmland still blanketed 67 percent of the county in 1949, but
urbanization pared that portion down to 49 percent by 1964 and
36 percent by 1978. A wide western-and-northern arc of farmland
endured, however.
"This agricultural landscape still reflects
the centuries-old pattern of family farmsin field, pasture,
and woodlot; in farm houses, farm buildings; and in rural villages
and towns," nationally known planner and historian Frederick
Gutheim observed in a 1977 report to the Montgomery County Planning
Board. Gutheim, an up-county resident who died in 1993, had long
talked up this legacyagricultural as well as environmental
and cultural. "While a building evokes its past, the entire
agricultural scene describes the larger culture," he wrote,
"and the landscape itself is as instructive as a museum,
the more so when it is alive with activity." The board had
also been worried. Consulting Gutheim and many others, including
farmers, real estate interests, developers, and citizens
groups, it devised a master plan for preserving agriculture and
open space. "This was also a time, nationally and in Maryland,
when there was a lot of interest in saving farmland," says
former planning board chairman Royce Hanson, who piloted the plan
to adoption in 1980.
The plan created a 90,000-acre up-county "agricultural
reserve" where the residential density was set at one house
per 25 acres, down from five acres. This acreage was deemed large
enough to support a farm. The plan also offered property owners,
faced with shrinking land values caused by the new zoning, compensation
through a device known as transferable development rights (TDRs).
Farmers in the reserves "sending areas" could
sell the rights from their land, calculated on the basis of the
prior zoning, to developers for use in down-county "receiving
areas" where normal residential densities were increased
accordingly. It was a less-is-more scheme, costing little public
money and offering gain to both sellers and buyers. Farmers could
use the money to pay down debt, for example, or buy land and equipment.
Overnight, the ability of landowners to plant houses
instead of corn was curtailed. Understandably, many of those most
affectedfarmers, speculators, real estate brokersharbored
deep reservations about losing equity. "Youve bought
your house, and you hope its going to be worth more money
when you sell it. That may or may not be the case here,"
says Allnutt. "Its still the same problem with preservation
programs," says Drew Stabler, a farmer who served on the
plans agricultural advisory board. "Can you afford
to preserve it? How do you keep from taking the equity away from
the landowners? Its not just the farmers." Frank Jamison,
president of Charles H. Jamison Real Estate, a Poolesville firm
that dominates the up-county market, recalls that "we had
gone from half-acre to one-acre to five-acre to 25-acre zoning
in a 20-year period. So there was this siege mentality" among
some landowners.
Overall, however, the process of selling the plan
was "surprisingly nonconfrontational," says Hanson.
"There was a lot of skepticism that the system could work,"
he concedes, but ultimately many farmers and others came on board.
"With the chance to recover their equity interest in the
land by selling development rights," he says, "I think
some of the farmers might say I offered them a deal they couldnt
refuse." Indeed, the countys carrot-and-stick approach
was alluring. And successful. "There are no counties that
Im aware of that have done more" with this approach,
says Edward Thompson Jr., senior vice president for public policy
of the American Farmland Trust and an up-county resident active
in agricultural protection there. The loudest cries came from
receiving areas. "There always was resistance to increasing
density," says Hanson, citing one overheated case in Potomac,
where neighbors contested the use of TDRs at the Avenel Farms
project. "The community was not thrilled," he says,
"since it meant that they were going to have rich folks
homes on smaller lots than they might have otherwise had."
A big selling point of the plan was its safeguards
of historical and environmental values in the upper county. The
planning board was not afraid to admit that it wanted to protect
open space as well as agriculture, a goal often deridedparticularly
by farmersas saving scenery for city folk. "Were we
trying to preserve farming or trying to preserve open space?"
says Hanson. "My answer is yes. "
"The fact of the matter is that counties
tend not to get serious about this until half their land is gone.
Its pretty predictable," says the farmland trusts
Thompson. "Politically, it certainly wouldnt have happened
if there hadnt been a very large majority of nonfarmers
who wanted to preserve farmland and open space." That reflects
a national trend: The areas most threatened by urbanizationpopulous
counties on the edges of the largest metropolitan areashave
scored the greatest gains.
In addition to the agricultural plan, Montgomery
County has created a master plan for every one of its communities,
acquired parkland along hundreds of miles of streams, channeled
development near the Metro subway, revived older commercial centers,
and created more affordable housing than any other suburban county
in America. "Theyve done it right," says Thompson.
"Montgomery basically invented what we now call smart growth."
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Inverness Farm,
Montgomery County
(John P. Zawitoski) |
Roots of Success
More than 21 years have passed since the county
approved the agricultural plan, and it is still going strong.
The reserve is intact. The political change of heart that one
might have predicted, given the experience of other fast-growing
jurisdictions, has not occurred, nor has erosive rezoning. "The
longer we have the program, the deeper is the commitment to retain
it and the more people who recognize its uniqueness," says
Judy Daniel, the planning boards lead rural planner. "Its
a strong, psychic commitment both up-county and down." The
gains are impressive: Prior to the plan, 3,000 acres of farmland
were lost yearly; from 1980 to 1998, only 5,500 acres in all were
developed. An up-county tour confirms the achievement. "The
ag reserve is one of the few places in the metropolitan area where
I can drive on quiet roads in a landscape unchanged since my childhood,"
says the Trusts Marriott. "I get additional pleasure
out of the fact that this is not a threatened landscape I must
enjoy before its lost."
The ride hasnt been bump free. Some farmers
have complained all along that TDRs fetch too little. (Their market
value, initially about $3,500 each, peaked at $11,000 in 1996
and has since declined to approximately $6,500. Partly as a result,
few have transferred in recent years.) "They sort of have
a point," says Thompson. "You dont get paid as
much for TDRs as your land would have been worth if youd
been able to develop it. But its still a good chunk of money."
Some farmers claim there arent enough receiving areas to
stimulate the TDR market, a theory Thompson disputes. The planning
board has in any event added receiving areas over the years, working
them into new or revised local master plans.
Separate from the TDRs, the county has begun to
purchase development rights, since 1987 paying $22 million for
6,268 acres worth of rights. All told, the TDR and purchase ventures,
supplemented by similar county and state programs, have protected
53,298 acres of farmland so farapproximately 17 percent
of the countys land area. "This is more acreage and
a greater percentage of land than any other local jurisdiction
in the country," according to Thompson.
To look at most of Montgomery, you might never
guess it harbors so much farmland. It is, after all, a large and
prosperous suburb, complete with freeways, shopping centers, condo
towers, subdivisions, and even subway lines. But glance also at
some of the statistics that the county has gathered: 526 farms
and 350 horticultural businesses; 60,510 acres of cropland; 8,000
cows and 15,000 horses; 4,500 acres in sod; 408,000 bushels of
wheat and 431,000 of soybeans produced annually; 1.1 million bushels
of corn grown for grain. Some suburb.
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| Izzak Walton
League Farm's 368 acres are protected by a Rural Legacy easement
(John P. Zawitoski) |
Montgomery backs up its planners vision with
practical support for farmers, promoting new farming methods,
market opportunitiesthe county brokered the sale of produce
at Giant and Safeway supermarketsand cooperative arrangements.
It also troubleshoots. "You can go over a set of circumstances
with them," says Drew Stabler, "and theyll help
you with the programs available and the time frame involved. They
really guide you." A landowner wanting to sell TDRs will
call Jeremy Criss, manager of the agricultural services division,
for help with that process. The division offers small-business
loans and, during the drought of the late 1990s, dispensed grants
to distressed farmers. The county also operates markets that sell
local fruits and vegetables blazoned with "The Pride of Montgomery
County" labels. Criss works out of the Agricultural History
Farm Park, a 410-acre farm acquired by the county in 1964.
Agriculture in Montgomery County has changed over
the last quarter-century. The term "farming" no longer
covers it. "While the numbers of farmers, farms, and acres
have been going down, the market value of the product sold has
been increasing each year the census is done," says Criss.
"Were becoming more efficient but also seeing new types
of agriculture." Two sectors have grown enormously horticulture
with its nurseries, landscaping firms, sod farms, and lawn-care
companies, and the horse industry with its breeding, training,
and recreational operations. Direct sales have also risen, especially
at pick-your-own vendors like Homestead Farm. Horticulture, horses,
and direct sales thrive on the nearby city. "When agriculture
that serves suburban consumers
is included, farming is
generating more dollars in the county economy than ever before,"
reported the countys 1995 Future of Agriculture Study. Although
the trend is away from some types of traditional farmingdairy
farms, for example, have all but disappearedgrain farming
continues to contribute substantially to the economy and controls
a majority of the land.
American Pastoral
The road to Damascus runs high on a ridge near
Montgomerys northern border. No conversion has taken place
here, however, other than the building of some houses and a church.
Farming still dominates. On a late-summer day, vast stretches
of corn and soybeans mature under a hot sun, and just-tilled fields
await planting. A traffic sign with a tractor-crossing symbol
cautions drivers. This is where Drew Stabler grows corn, wheat,
soybeans, hay, and beef cattle at Sunny Ridge Farms. Like the
Allnutts, the Stablers have been farming here for generations.
Stabler was one of the farmers who advised the
planning board when it drew up its agricultural plan. Although
skeptical about losing equity, Stabler concluded that "the
program was something we could try to use," which in fact
he did, selling 80 percent of his TDRs to a developer in suburban
Olney. This was a test case for the board. Using rights from Stabler
and others, the developer built 1,200 houses and townhouses. The
board had woven receiving areas into the Olney Master Plan, which
it drew up alongside the agricultural plan. To negotiate the TDR
process, Stabler jokes, "we had to pay for the education
of every lawyer in Rockville."
Sunny Ridge Farms has grown in the past 40 years
from 200 to 1,500 acres, half of which Stabler leases from owners.
Hes made some changes, dropping hogs and sweet corn, for
instance, and adding soybeans. But, he wonders, "how far
can we go as a farming operation? Theres not a single place
to sell grain in Montgomery County anymore. We have to go to Baltimore,
the [Maryland] Eastern Shore, or southern Pennsylvania. There
are two equipment dealers left in the county, but over 75 percent
of their business is in lawn mowers, not ag equipment. And we
dont buy any of our fertilizer, pesticides, and lime here.
In the future, if those things get farther away, how long can
it be profitable to farm here?"
Diversification may be an answer. Try specialty
fruits, vegetables, meats, and dairy products, some observers
say, or go into pick-your-own. Stabler concedes the success of
some of these enterprises but says they offer limited markets
and dont save much farmland. Referring to the size of his
own operation, he says, "Theres not 1,500 acres of
pick-your-own or goat cheese in the county, even with 800,000
people." Edward Thompson of the American Farmland Trust agrees:
"The advocates of niche marketsand were one of
themtend to talk as if this is the savior of agriculture
around cities. Well, if everybody grew bok choy, the market would
be glutted." Such a shift would also be expensive, Stabler
adds, and "at 65, Im not quite willing to go that route."
But he doesnt discount the possibility that his younger
partners might raise horses, for instance, or organic beef cattle.
Traditional farming tends to not attract participants outside
the established families. But, Stabler says, "I think theres
still a future for agriculture in this county."
So does Susan Butler, who with her two brothers
runs Butlers Orchard, a pick-your-own enterprise near Germantown
that grows fruits, vegetables, bedding plants, pumpkins, and Christmas
trees and offers hayrides and Easter-egg hunts. Her father started
the business in 1950 with 37 acres of peaches and in the early
1970s rented an adjoining 218-acre farm. By the early 1980s, the
kids had finished college and were ready to come back to the farm.
"We had been looking at land in [adjacent] Frederick County,"
Butler says, "thinking wed move our operation, because
the 37 acres wasnt enough. And it looked like this 218 acres
would be developed." Then the rezoning and TDR program came
along. The Butlers bought the tract, retaining seven TDRs and
leaving the rest with the seller. "The rezoning allowed the
price to come down to something we could afford," she says.
"We were young and didnt own any land, so it was a
positive.
"Mom and Dad used to wholesale peaches
to Washington groceries," Butler continues. But, "after
some frosty years, losing a crop, children coming along, Dad got
into strawberries. We couldnt pick enough, so he let people
pick. One thing led to anotherup to maybe 30 crops."
She agrees that theres a limit to the countys pick-your-own
market but recognizes "were in the right niche for
an urban area," that of "community-friendly agriculture.
Its entertainment, recreation, a family activity,
a tradition." She sees a future for Butlers. "Were
still young," she says. "Were still planting Christmas
trees, and thats another eight years before the crop comes
in. You put a blueberry bush in the ground, and youre thinking
its going to produce for 30 years. So we plan to continue."
A listing in the Montgomery County Historical Societys
time line"1999: horses outnumber cows"is
telling. Horses have arrived bigtime. Rarely the raison dêtre
of a traditional farm, they are now the sole focus of 20,000 acres
of "horse farms"private recreational retreats
or businesses that board, train, or breed them for riding, racing,
hunting, or show.
One of these equine entrepreneurs is Michael Rubin,
who owns Breezy Hill Farm, a 126-acre former dairy farm near the
village of Boyds. This is the ideal countryside of the minds
eye: hilly roads, meandering streams, early-18th-century stone
houses, and rolling fields. An international real estate investor
in Chevy Chase, Md., Rubin raises a dozen horses on his spread,
which he bought three years ago, converting the dairy barn into
a stable. "The horses I train and keep for our own use are
hunter-jumpers, fox hunters, and for dressage," he says,
explaining the latter as "very disciplined and nonspectacular"
training for both horse and rider. Rubin also grows hay, for feed
and to control stream sedimentation.
Some of the agricultural old guard belittle the
horse business as "hobby farming," since it doesnt
produce food and often breaks down so-called real farms into small
tracts. But horse owners are "being brought into the agricultural
loop," states George Lechlider, chairman of the Montgomery
Soil Conservation District, in the 2001 Montgomery County Horse
Study. Many traditional farmersDrew Stabler, for onenow
produce hay for the owners of horse operations. "So we have
a hay industry today that we didnt have 25 years ago,"
says Jeremy Criss.
Still, the trend has "brought a lot of people
out there who dont know how to treat the land," says
Thompson. of the farmland trust. Too many horse farmers overgraze
pastures, for example, leading to erosion, and improperly dispose
of manure, causing stream pollution. "When such problems
crop up," says Thompson, "they dont recognize
them. They dont have country eyes." The Horse Study,
writes Lechlider, will "introduce [conservationists] to horse
owners." Rubin, whose operation the county deems responsible,
works with it to steward his land. "Horses are high-impact
animals," he says.
The horses growing presence translates into
"a stronger constituency for protecting the land," says
Thompson. Rubin, in fact, is a major player. In addition to Breezy
Hill, he owns 740 adjacent acres, most of it leased to a grain
farmer, and he recently acquired 1,700 pristine acres next to
Boyds once slated to become a quarry or a landfill. He is permanently
protecting all of these holdings from development. Working with
the county, the state, and the Trust for Public Land, he is selling
more than 2,500 acreseither outright or as development rights
and conservation easements. "It will be without question
the largest [such preservation undertaking] ever done here,"
Rubin says, and is also choice for its strategic location at the
edge of the reserve.
The Rubin deal is good news for the reserve, which
in the eyes of some residents has been threatened ever since the
countys plan went into effect in 1980. "People have
no idea how little property the reserve really is," says
Jane Hunter. "They try to shoehorn stuff in all the time."
Hunter until recently headed the Sugarloaf Citizens Association,
founded in 1973 to fight a proposed sewage-treatment plant in
the countys northwest corner. (The plant was not built.)
The group has battled a landfill, a power-plant expansion, a composting
facility, and a slew of commercial propositions from a golf course
to a day spa. Most are allowed only as special exceptions to the
zoning code, giving Sugarloaf an opening and time to hone its
invective.
"A lot of people think were litigious,"
she says, "and I guess we are." As the result of a 1994
suit against the county over expanding its compost operation,
a former dairy barn on county-owned Linden Farm has been renovated
and leased to Sugarloaf for its headquarters. An adjacent barn
is also being restored. "When this farm is completely restored,
it will be the only, and the most extensive, dairy farm in the
county thats intact," says Hunter, a self-described
"old-fashioned dirt farmer" who with her husband grows
wheat, corn, and soybeans on 2,200 acres near Beallsville.
The newest threat comes from across the Potomac
in Virginia, where business and political interests are pushing
for construction of Techway, a highway linking the Dulles Airport
area with I-270, which shoots northwest through Montgomery. The
latest iteration of an outer-beltway proposal that has been hanging
around for years, Techway would include the countys only
Potomac bridge beyond the Capital Beltway and thus, its proponents
argue, relieve considerable congestion. It almost certainly would
slice through the agricultural reserve. Michael Rubin calls it
"a bald-assed attempt to kill the ag reserve and ultimately
force the development of the land out here by the guys across
the river." Although Techway is not without support in Maryland,
the county and Maryland Gov. Parris Glendening oppose it, as do
many citizens groups, including Sugarloaf.
F.A.R.M. (For a Rural Montgomery), a coalition
formed in 1994, is hard on the anti-Techway trail. "The road
would have a devastating impact on the metro areas crown
jewel of wise planning," says F.A.R.M.s president,
Dolores Milmoe. "Techway would be its death knellfirst
the road, then the sprawl." A federal study of the issue
launched in 2000 by Rep. Frank Wolf (R-Va.) was killed by him
last May after his own constituents protested Techways impact
on the Virginia side. Techway will not go away soon, however,
since transportation is stalled high on the list of Washington-area
vexations. In 2000, F.A.R.M. helped birth a new regional alliance,
Solutions Not Sprawl, to fight Techway and promote such alternatives
as a new Metro subway line, light-rail service, and balanced land
use. "The river crossing/highway scenario is still going
forward," the group warns. A Montgomery County transportation
task force"heavily weighted with road-oriented members,"
Milmoe sayshas in fact come out in favor of the project.
Meanwhile, Loudoun County in Virginia has launched
its own bold attempt to save farmland. Defenders of Montgomerys
reserve like to point out its stark contrast with ever-thickening
development directly across the Potomac. Loudoun is one of the
nations fastest-growing counties. In July, it imposed strict
growth controls over its still-rural western flank, part of which
it rezoned to allow only one house per 50 acres. But, unlike Maryland,
which abets and funds county farmland protection, Virginia is
rigidly conservative about governmental controls over land and
doles out little independence to its counties. "The divide
along the Potomac is incredibly radical in terms of what government
can and cannot do," says Montgomery planner Judy Daniel.
Opponents of the Loudoun initiative are readying scores of lawsuits.
"Its going to take an extraordinary defense and act
of will to maintain what they want to do there," says Thompson.
"But Loudoun has done pretty much what Montgomery did 20-plus
years ago, and it may not be too late."
Can Montgomerys achievement be duplicated?
Similar urban-fringe countiescertain others in Maryland,
for example, Marin in California, and Lancaster in Pennsylvaniahave
scored success with comparable carrot-and-stick mixes. Many others
are trying hard to save critical masses of farmland. "The
biggest problem with farmland protection in this country,"
says Thompson, "is that communities are not drawing a line
in the sand and saying were not going to develop beyond
this point." The solution remains simple: Think big, act
big.
Arnold Berke is senior editor at Preservation.
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