The Houses that Jack Built
At Jack London's California ranch, curators
are dismantling a museum to create another.

Story by Anne Trubek / Feb. 18, 2005

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| The view from Jack London's
ranch in Glen Ellen, Calif. (Jack London State Historical
Park) |
"I ride over my beautiful ranch.
… The air is wine. Across Sonoma Mountain, wisps of sea fog are
stealing. The afternoon sun smolders in the drowsy sky. I have
everything to make me glad I am alive." Jack London
The hard-living, peripatetic writer
Jack London, who died in 1916, lived his last, peaceful days in
a small cottage built in 1862 on his 800-acre ranch in the rolling,
wooded hills of California's Sonoma Valley.
The modest, 3,000-square-foot cottage
doesn't seem to fit the image of London, a bold former sailor
who was the highest paid author of his day. Nor did it suit London's
view of himself: in 1910, he began building a mansion nearby called
Wolf House, an audacious attempt to create his own posthumous
mark: "My house will be standing, act of God permitting, for a
thousand years." The act of God came brutally quick, and Wolf
House burned down in 1913, days before London was to move in.
Every year, 65,000 visitors to Jack
London State Historical Park in Glen Ellen, Calif., can view the
ruin, tour the empty cottage, and roam a quirky museum in another
house on the ranch, which has 10 buildings, including silos, a
barn, and a "pig palace."
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| London's silos (Alvis Hendley) |
This winter, park curators are busy
moving the author's belongings from one of his houses to another
a half a mile away. By next year, the cottage will be filled with
London's belongings, recreated as it looked when London died.
The work of moving London's possessions
to the cottage began three years ago after the park received a
major capital outlay grant of 1.5 million (including an earlier,
earthquake retrofit completed in the 1990s) to restore the cottage.
In 1990, the Jack London Historical Park had adopted a policy
to make restoration of the cottage to its 1916 appearance a high
priority. After all, the cottage is where Jack London actually
lived and wrote, and thus is one of the most significant historic
structures in the park.
But since 1963, London paraphernaliaincluding
his desk, Dictaphone, and bedhas been on display in the
"House of Happy Walls," which London's second wife, Charmian,
built in 1919, three years after Jack died. Before Charmain died
in 1955, she directed that the house be used as a memorial to
Jack.
In the "House of Happy Walls" are recreations
of the writer's study, bedroom, and "unpacking room" nestled in
small alcoves and protected by Plexiglas barriers. Like dioramas
in natural-history museums, these displays show London's original
habitat, fossilized under glass.
Since the museum was created more than
40 years ago, it is itself historic. The objects, such as London's
pressed, yellowing shirts, are old, and so are the displays. Informational
labels are printed in 1960s era fonts, and they, too, are yellowing.
Yet, says Carol Dodge, district curator
of the California State Parks, "It's tough to make changes because
people want to come and see exactly what they saw when they were
children."
Recreating the cottage as it looked
90 years ago requires painstaking, sometimes impossible research.
"We have photographs," Dodge says, "but there's a problem with
relying on historic photographs: You only see one half a room."
In 2003, the park commissioned an "interpretative
and furnishings plan" to help it curate the cottage. The report,
more than 500 pages long, is filled with reminiscences from London's
family and friends. Researchers pored through memoirs, biographies,
and letters, scouring for details. "Jack had to have a bowl of
dried fish by his bed at night," reports his manservant, Nakata.
The rangers, researchers, and curators
are trying to get everything right, down to re-planting morning
glories on the North Porch. To recapture the past, they have to
eradicate some of the present: A comment in the park's furnishings
plan notes that "there seem to be no current plans to deal with
the woodpecker drilling in the walls."
The first phase of the move is to conserve
large objects currently in storage: London's roll-top desk, his
Dictaphone, covered with "years and years of grime," and two Korean
chests. The curators couldn't find the antlers that hung on the
walls, so they're using some from another state park's collection.
They're working hard to recreate the
small sliver of time that Jack and Charmian lived in the house.
Milo Shephard, Jack's greatnephew, notes: "London … was in Glen
Ellen for five years, from 1911-1916, and during those five years
he was six months on the cruise of the Derrigo, he was twice in
the Hawaiian Islands for six months, he was down in Vera Cruz,
he was traveling."
Dodge is trying to gather all the research
to furnish the cottage right, so in 10 or 20 years, the next curator
doesn't have to do it all over again. "We always have our eyes
open for photographs-if we see something in a corner, we scan
it, zoom in, and make it larger."
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|
The ruin of Wolf House
(Alvis Hendley)
|
Meanwhile, the moss keeps growing on
the stones of Wolf House, which will remain a ruin. During his
brief time on the ranch, London poured enormous energy and $80,000
of pre-World War I dollars into building the 15,000-square-foot
Wolf House, half a mile away from the cottage, nestled amongst
redwoods and the eucalyptus trees London himself planted.
Wolf House was designed by San Francisco
architect Albert Farr. Set on floating concrete slabs to protect
it from earthquakes, it was built from locally quarried stone
and redwood trees. It was topped by a Spanish tile roof, encircled
a reflecting pool stocked with local fish, and contained a enormous
dining area that could accommodate 50 guests, a men-only gaming
room, and London's study, a sleeping tower overlooking the mountains.
He never lived there, and it can't be recreated, but it is a breathtaking,
thriving memorial.
Most writers seek to leave a legacy
of words. Not Jack London. He cared little for what he wrote;
he published so he could raise money for Wolf House and Beauty
Ranch, his farm, where he used organic techniques before their
time. He wanted to "to leave the land better for my having been."
Any visitor to Jack London State Historic Park would agree that
he succeeded.
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