Stone By Stone
The 1,000-year-old Pieces of a Spanish Monastery Are Being Reconstructed in California.

Story by Meghan Hogan / Mar. 10, 2006

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| Stashed in a warehouse and left outside for decades, a Cistercian chapter house is taking shape. In August, its foundation, walls, and roof were reconstructed. (Abbey of New Clairvaux)
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Surrounded by fields of grapes in the heart of northern
California, on what was once one of Leland Stanford's three vineyards,
the state's largest before prohibition, a weather-beaten stone
structure is slowly being rebuilt, a continent away from its original
home. What was once the chapter house for the Santa Maria de Ovila
Monastery in Ovila, Spain, soon will be the chapter house for
the Abbey of New Clairvaux in Vina, Calif.
The stones, carved between 1190 and 1220 by Cistercian monks,
began their long journey in 1931, when vacationing newspaper giant William
Randolph Hearst noticed the then-closed monastery and decided to make
it a vacation home. However, Wyntoon Castle, as Hearst named it, was not
to be. Despite the $85,000 he paid for it and almost another $1 million
to dismantle and ship it, Hearst decided he could not afford to rebuild
the monastery as the luxurious mansion he had envisioned because of the
Depression and his worsening finances.
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| The ruins of the Santa Maria de Ovila
Monastery in Spain (Abbey of New Clairvaux) |
The stones spent the 1930s in warehouses before Hearst gave
them to city of San Francisco with an agreement that they would be used
to build a museum in Golden Gate Park. Because of funding problems, the
museum was never built, but the stones did make it to the park in the
early 1940s, where they endured the elements and worse. "They were
plagued by fires," says Philip Sunseri, general contractor for the
chapter house's reconstruction. "All the markings on the stones were
lost."
After decaying for decades in Golden Gate Park, most of
the stones finally made it to the abbey, 175 miles north of San Francisco,
except for some which were used for retaining walls for the park's Japanese
Garden.
"I didn't think we'd ever get them," says New
Clairvaux Abbot Thomas X. Davis, who first noticed the 800-year-old stones
in 1955. Despite his interest in bringing the stones to the abbey, they
sat in place because of red tape until 1994. "What really set things
in our favor was the Northridge earthquake," Davis says. The Fine
Arts Museums of San Francisco, the city, and the abbey worked out an arrangement
to preserve the stones: The abbey would start rebuilding the 2,080-square-foot
chapter house over the next 10 years and one day open it to the public.
Besides its age and its Hearst connection, the chapter house
is unique for its style: It is one of the rare examples of Cistercian
architecture in America. (Other Cistercian structures are the Ancient
Monastery St. Bernard de Clairvaux in North Miami Beach, Fla., and The
Cloisters in Bronx, N.Y., but as Davis points out, they are Romanesque,
while the one being rebuilt in Vina is Gothic.)
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The chapter house's foundation, walls,
and roof are in place (Abbey of New Clairvaux)
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Cistercian architecture is very simple and clean, with every
element representing the Cistercian order's relationship to God. Geometric
windows are used to create light and shadows, the absence of art and decoration
suggests devotion to prayer, and the structure's height represents monks
standing upright before God. "The architecture is used to create
an experience of awe," Davis says. The design came about as part
of the Cistercian order of the Catholic church. "It's kind of like
thinking about Shaker architecture, except it's 1,000 years old,"
says Anthony Veerkamp, senior program officer at the National Trust's
Western Office and a goodwill ambassador for the project.
As if getting the stones wasn't hard enough, reconstructing
them has been another challenge. After arriving in 1994 at the abbey on
20 truckloads, a restoration team began identifying each stone and how
all 5,000 of them would fit together. The stones were modeled for computer
imaging, mapped, and then labeled. "Computer design really helped,"
Sunseri says. "The process was much more accurate and streamlined
than it otherwise would have been." Workers studied dimensions and
photographs so that the building will be a replica of how it looked in
Spain.
The restoration has had its rough spots, though. Meeting
California earthquake codes has been difficult, and limestone has had
to fill in for missing stones. Sunseri says the most challenging aspect
has been time. "The pace of work with this is much slower,"
he says. "You have to take each stone and carefully set it and make
sure it's perfect."
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| Chapter house model (Abbey of New Clairvaux) |
In August, phase one of the Ovila Chapter Housethe
installation of the foundation, exterior, and roofwas finished,
12 years after the abbey first acquired the stones. Davis says it will
be at least a year before the second phase begins, as $2 to $3 million
is still needed.
Once all the stones are finally in place, the medieval structure
will return to serving its original purpose as a place for the community.
Centuries ago, meetings and elections were held in the chapter house,
kings and queens visited, and members of the order were officially inducted.
This time around, the public will be able to enjoy the building, but it
will still also be a place where the abbey's brothers can conduct their
business. "It will be like a family room," Davis says.
The National Trust's Western Office gave the abbey a $4,000
grant toward a historic-structure report on some of the distillery buildings
still on the vineyard.
"If you look at the history of what's happened to the
chapel house, it's just been injustice after injustice. None of it should
ever have happened," Veerkamp says. "It's a remarkable coming-home
story."
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